At Paris Fashion Week, certain shows sometimes have particular symbolism. This was the case this Wednesday evening for Jeanne Friot’s show. The Parisian designer had taken over the Grand Rex club, in the basement of the emblematic Parisian cinema, to present her fall-winter 2024-2025 collection entitled “Coming out”.
After several presentations via the incubator for emerging designers SPHERE – attached to the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode –, Jeanne Friot inaugurated her very first fashion show outside the Palais de Tokyo in a setting that reflects her image: punk and underground. The few guests who came to support the 29-year-old Parisian attended an invigorating show, even transported, and punctuated by surprises such as the presence on the podium of the host Daphné Burki in a rigid corset dress riddled with belts, or of the DJ Sara Zinger is responsible for putting the music to the show.
“I do fashion to talk about the deconstructions that I am experiencing as a lesbian woman,” Jeanne Friot told me during our first meeting last February. And we can say that, within the framework of this fourth collection, this was particularly seen and heard – the final music of the show was notably “All The Things She Said”, the lesbian anthem from the group tATu Celle qui s ‘in line with Vivienne Westwood has once again paid tribute to the legendary British designer thanks to a strong and committed collection, inspired by her own personal love story: “The song ‘Loveher’ by Romy made me want to talk about my love story with my wife and to tell a lesbian story through a collection,” she explained to me again.
“I wanted to rework the lesbian imaginaries of butch and fem through a collection.”
Jeanne Friot
This new fall wardrobe, totally gerderfluid, gave pride of place to shades of purple, the color of the lesbian flag and the chromatic red thread of the collection. After the scarlet red of her previous winter collection “Red Warriors”, Jeanne Friot this time opted for a more versatile wardrobe, less spectacular and very controlled despite its apparent carelessness. Hand-painted jacket and wide trouser sets, large brown faux fur coats or colorful trouser skirts… The collection is deliberately eclectic, drawing on all styles, which end up blending together in the most natural way.
“I wanted to show that when you fall in love with someone the locker rooms split to create a third locker room. This collection is two different wardrobes coming together,” explained Jeanne Friot. We of course found in this collection the Jeanne Friot touch like the tartan or the pants set with feathers. “I also wanted to rework the lesbian imaginaries of the butch and the fem. I wondered if these stereotypes were still valid today and how we could bring them up to date. And above all how they could shine through clothes,” summarized Jeanne Friot.
